Jim Jones

[Jim Jones]

Jeff, glad to hear the Restoration is complete. If the rigging was done according to the manual, that is, it has the correct dihedral in the upper wing and all the control surfaces are set per the manual the only thing left is to make sure all wires are properly tightened and go fly it to see how it worked out. May need to adjust the trailing edge of a lower wing up or down to correct any tendency to roll. As far as how tight the wires should be…that’s not in the book. I can pluck the wires and tell you if they are right or not but that just comes from plucking a lot of wires and knowing how they are supposed to sound!!! The landing wires set the dihedral so adjust those first to get the 4-4 1/2” space between the top edges of the center section and a string drawn tight between the tips of the main spar in the upper wing. Once the dihedral is set, tighten up the flying wires. Here is where the ear comes in handy. The middle of the wires should not move much more than 3/8” or so. Pluck each one to get the same note. As you tighten the flying wires the landing wire note will go down. Just make them all tight and the same note, then install the steel sleeve on the #2 flying wire on each side where the #1 landing wire almost touches it. Install the javelin and go fly. Make sure the wires on the center section are tight. They won’t move very much at all when properly tight. Don’t forget the wires under the tail. I hope this helps. Call me if you are still having troubles with the rigging. 864-353-7440

[Jim Jones]

Update on grease for the Warner 145. After my engine swallowed an exhaust valve two years ago, my protocol for greasing this engine has gone through a tremendous evaluation. I spent a great deal of time with my engine overhauler. While his forte is the Warner 165, he did some research on greases and their stability in the 145. He rebuilt my engine, ran it with a new cocktail of greases, evaluated the parts and ran it some more. Here is what he found and what I now do:

On the rocker springs I use John Deere cornhead grease. It has a lower melting point, which is what you want on the springs and valve stems. I made an adapter for my grease gun that adapts a 1/8” copper tube to it so I can squirt between the spring coils directly onto the inner spring and valve stem.

For the rocker rollers and rocker bearings I use Lucas Sticky Red grease. This stuff is amazing. It’s really sticky and seems to be perfect for this application on the rollers and bearings.

Finally, I started greasing my new overhaul every 5 hours and have now extended it to 7 hours. My overhauler says I could probably go 10 hours between grease jobs. Working up to that.

[Jim Jones]

The OTW manual contains drawings of how the panels were originally laid out, complete with placards. Most panels have been modified over the years, some beyond recognition! I can supply a manual or pics of my panel if that would help.

[Jim Jones]

Dick, yes, boots were used, primarily, to keep dirt out of that bronze trunion bearing around the shock strut. Barg has the pattern for the boot….. somewhere.

[Jim Jones]

Donald, it’s an honor to know someone that knew someone that knew Charles Lindbergh! That’s quite a story.

As far as three pointing the airplane, I try to do that on the grass. I’ve tried on hard surface but it’s not pretty. My now deceased friend, Captain Chuck Downey, who flew Helldivers in WWII off the USS Ticonderoga, three pointed no matter where he landed. It was always pretty! He said, “always three point it. Why prolong the agony!” Just get it close to the ground and keep pulling that stick back. It will feel like you are going to point the nose straight up. To practice, take her to altitude and do power off stalls. Hold that stick all the way back and she will just mush straight ahead all the way to the ground.
Like you, I always try for a tail low wheel landing on the hard stuff. Captain called that the “backside of the mains.” To me, a tail low wheel landing is perfectly acceptable. I hope this helps. Jim.

[Jim Jones]

Donald,

Congrats to your dad for restoring and preserving a great piece of American aviation history! I’m glad that your OTW is alive and well. With your experience you shouldn’t have any problems with the OTW on pavement. If you can fly a Champ, you can fly the OTW. It’s an elegant lady!

In lieu of a published crosswind component, it comes down to personal limitations. The OTW has lots of rudder. I’ve landed with a 12kt. component and still had a bit of control remaining. The large rudder stays effective deep into the rollout. However, the biggest problem I find is not the landing so much as it is the taxi ability. That big rudder and vertical fin now fight you on any turn across the prevailing wind.

If I had one comment about crosswind landings in the OTW, it is the cross control technique will feel exaggerated. The ailerons and rudder are very effective.

Those brakes are just a suggestion! I generally don’t use them above walking speed.

I hope this helps. I’ll be anxious to read any other input from other OTW experienced flyers.

[Author]

Posts